Three Streets Back – Finike

Hello, welcome, come aboard. Weather in Finike has been a bit hit and miss the last few days. Reminds me of Melbourne, pouring rain on minute, sunny the next. Wednesday, however, was a slice of perfections. The skies were blue and the sun shone out long enough for Ian to drag me out for a walk “three streets back”. We often find ourselves in the industrial backstreets hunting for a Widget or Whose-it for some boat project or other. However, sometimes our adventures don’t include looking for unicorn-widgets or Fix-It Wizards.

Wednesday was one of these “just because” adventures as we decided to walk up into the hilly suburbs behind the main streets of town. It wasn’t until we walked climbed the hillside (and I did a bit of research) that we began to appreciate the size of our “little town”.

The town has a population of around 12,000 people and the region boast almost 50,000, give or take the most recent births and deaths. I think this probably a conservative number at the moment given with the influx of those displaced by the earthquake and the war in Ucrania.

The agricultural foundation of the area dates back to at least 5 BCE when the region was known as  Phoenious. We were both surprised by the view looking back down toward the town and the acres and acres of greenhouses lay beyond the suburban spread. Agriculture and tourism are the main sources of income in the region, with oranges and other citrus fruit making up the largest crops. However, tomatoes, lettuce and all the good green, red and gold stuff are grown in enormous green houses. Of course the prime real estate along the coast is dotted with hotels and resorts, however even these compete with the farms.

At one time the area was ruled by the Byzantines, the Anatolian Seljuk State, the Tekeoğulları Principality and the Ottomans. You do not see much in the way of ancient history in Finike but it is on the Lycian Way so if you travel a short way in any direction, you’ll eventually trip over some ruin or archaeological wonder.

The ‘Battle of the Masts’, one of the major battles of antiquity, took place just off the coast of Finike in 655 ADE. This was the first decisive victory of the Arab fleet (200 ships) againstthe Byzantine fleet (500 ships). The Arab leader went on to Constantinople which, surprisingly enough, was named after his opponent Constantius’ Dad (or Grandfather, I can’t quite work it out which) Constantine the Great.

In more recent times, last Wednesday, we saw endless amounts development work going on. On some streets a new house or apartment block was being built. On other streets we saw road works, and sewage and other utilities being installed or upgraded. Occasionally all this work competed for space.

Yet, there is also decay and abandonment at every turn. There are half built buildings where folk a living on the lower floors while the upper floors are still bare steel and concrete. The Ministry of the Interior has a program called “Let My Home Be Your Home” that supports those who have lost their homes in the recent earthquakes. This would explain why so many of the partially completed residence are being occupied.

There’s always a gaggle of kids’ about, playing games or riding bikes (the teenagers all ride mopeds). The younglings are watched by a distracted Mother or attentive Grandmother. The braver kids often say hello in English, pleased to be trying out their language skills. There’s always a wizened gentlemen or two sitting in the sun, a cigarette in hand and a çay beside them. No doubt they’re solving the world’s problems, if only we’d all listen! We always greet them with a sturdy Turkish “Merhaba” (hello). (çay – pronounced chai, a strong black tea made from Camellia)

We didn’t see many cats and dogs on this walk, however there were plenty of hens and more than a few confused roosters still calling out the sun despite it being lunchtime. We also heard the distinctive bleats and tinkling bells of a goat herd on a nearby hill. Beehives are also a distinctive feature of the landscape.

On one particular street we came by a rather special little creature. The street had a long deep ditch running the length of the road. I presume they are putting in cables or sewage pipes. The ditch was about 10 feet deep, at least 50 metres long and a few feet across. At one end was the ditch digging machine, and along the sides were large mound of dirt. Our side had enough room for us to walk pass, but the other side was quite tight for space. It was here that we came upon a tortoise. His shell no more than a hand span and in the way that all of these particular reptiles he looked ancient and wise. Unfortunately the little fellow wasn’t out for a stroll but was valiantly trying to cross over to the relative safety of our side of the road

No doubt he had designs on the shady garden behind us but tortoises can’t jump. (I know this because I checked on the inter-web: see http://www.tortoiseowner.com), so he was having some difficulties. As dirt skittered from beneath his feet into the ditch, I swear I saw him look plaintively at us as if to say “A hand here might be good. If you wouldn’t mind.” At which point, I may have squealed and danced about in useless panic. Thankfully, Ian, who is always better in a crisis, leapt to the rescue. Putting himself at grave risk of falling into the hole, he used the ditch digger as a bridge collected the beleaguered tortoise. He then returned to our side, and gently deposited the little reptile beneath a geranium bush.

I didn’t see if the tortoise gave Ian a nod of thanks so I made sure to give him a sloppy kiss as reward for his bravery.

As we went on our way, I pondered upon what the tortoise thought about his rescue. Ian, whose quick wit is faster than his leap into action, proclaimed it would have been something like, “Whilst upon my journies I came upon the Pit of Despair. And, whence I thought all was lost, the hand of the great All Mighty God came down upon thine shell and raised me up, as if upon golden wings, and carried me over the Pit to my salvation! For thine is the power O’ Great One.“

So from the Mighty God and his adoring fan we say goodbye and… fair winds and a dearth of sea monsters for your coming week.